Basic knowledge of brand watches

We will introduce various basic knowledge about watches, from terminology you should know when choosing a watch to things to be aware of after purchasing one.

Names of brand bag types and partsNames of brand bag types and parts

Types of watches

Mechanical watches operate using the force that gradually unwinds a wound mainspring, and there are two types: manual winding and Automatic winding.

⚫︎ Hand-rolled
The mainspring is wound by manually turning the crown (the small knob on the side of the watch). The winding action stores energy in the mainspring, which gradually unwinds to move the hands of the watch.

The iconic hand-wound watch: the Omega Speedmaster
  • The iconic hand-wound watch: the Omega Speedmaster
  • The iconic hand-wound watch: the Speedmaster Moonwatch

⚫︎Automatic Automatic winding
The feature of this watch is that it automatically winds the mainspring using the movement of the arm. The rotor (weight) located inside the watch rotates in response to the movement of the arm, converting that movement into winding the mainspring. The biggest advantage of Automatic winding is that it rarely needs to be wound manually as long as it is worn daily. After about eight hours of activity on the arm, enough energy is stored, which can run the watch for about one to two days.

Breitling's iconic Automatic winding watches
  • Breitling's iconic Automatic winding watches
  • Examples of Vacheron Constantin Automatic winding watches
  • Examples of TAG Heuer Automatic winding watches

quartz clock

Quartz watches do not use a mainspring; they run on batteries as an energy source. Compared to mechanical watches, quartz watches are characterized by high accuracy. The crystal mounted inside the watch uses electricity supplied from the battery to generate a precise vibration rhythm and keep time. It will run until the battery dies, but the lifespan of the battery depends on the make and model of the watch you are using, and it usually needs to be replaced after about 1 to 2 years. When the battery runs out, it is necessary to replace the battery.

It receives light energy from sunlight or indoor lighting, converts it into electricity, and operates by doing so. Unlike traditional quartz watches, there is almost no need for periodic battery replacement, making it environmentally friendly and economical. Because it is naturally charged in everyday life, you can use it without having to worry about battery replacement, which is necessary for quartz watches, or winding, which is necessary for mechanical watches. View the list of quartz watches

Representative quartz watches

solar clock

It receives light energy from sunlight or indoor lighting, converts it into electricity, and operates by doing so. Unlike traditional quartz watches, there is almost no need for periodic battery replacement, making it environmentally friendly and economical. Because it is naturally charged in daily life, you can use it without having to worry about battery replacement, which is necessary for quartz watches, or winding, which is necessary for mechanical watches. View the list of solar watches

Representative solar watches

Part names of each part of the watch

Case

The part that is generally called the "main body" or "side (gawa)". It houses the machinery (movement) and other internal mechanisms, and plays an important role in protecting it from dirt, dust, and shocks from the outside. The quality and construction of the case is extremely important to the durability and reliability of your watch.

Bezel

The bezel is attached around Crystal and is located at the top of the case. The bezel plays an important role in protecting Crystal and dial from damage and impacts. There are various types of bezels, including fixed, rotating, and unidirectional, and functional types such as tachymeter and GMT. In particular, sports models such as diver's watches have a diving scale function that can measure elapsed time.

Rug

The part that joins the watch case to the bracelet or strap. Being integral to the case, the lugs are usually made from the same material as the case. They help give the watch a consistent look and feel.

index

A scale or number on a dial that shows the time. There are different types of index designs, such as simple bar indexes and Arabic indexes with Arabic numerals that are intuitively easy to read.

Movement / calibre

The power mechanism can be said to be the heart of a watch. Broadly speaking, there are two types: mechanical (hand-wound and Automatic winding) and quartz (battery-powered). Each movement is identified by its manufacturer with a specific model number or caliber number. This number, often abbreviated as "Cal.", is an important indicator of a watch's technical characteristics and performance. The caliber number is an important piece of information when choosing a watch, as it reflects the individuality of a watch in its design and manufacture, and allows different movements within the same model to offer a variety of functions and characteristics.

belt

The part of the watch that holds the watch on the wrist. It is commonly called a strap or band. This part greatly affects the wearer's comfort and appearance of the watch, and is made from a variety of materials, including metal, leather, and synthetic materials. Metallic watches are called bracelets, and are often made from a variety of materials, including stainless steel, titanium, and even precious metals.

calendar

The part of the dial where the date is displayed. Many models also have an additional feature that shows the date or day of the week, and this feature is called "Date". As a more advanced feature, some watches have a "day-date" function that displays not only the date but also the day of the week. This type of watch is designed to allow you to see both the date and day of the week at a glance through a separate window on the dial.

Crown

A protrusion on the side of a watch that is an important part for operating the watch mechanism. It plays a role in supplying power to the watch by winding the mainspring. By turning the crown, the internal mainspring is wound and the watch mechanism starts to work. The crown also has the function of adjusting the time. By pulling out the crown, the hands of the watch can be moved and the time can be set accurately.

dial

The face of a watch, where the hands and indexes are located. It is sometimes called the face. Dial designs vary widely and greatly affect the overall style and readability of a watch. In addition, the dial often contains elements that display functions and information other than the time, such as the watch's brand name or logo, and sometimes windows that display the date and day of the week, and chronograph subdials.

Crystal

A transparent cover part installed above the dial. It plays the role of protecting the dial and internal mechanisms of a watch from external shocks, friction, water, and dust, and its performance varies greatly depending on the material and processing technology. Typical Crystal materials include glass, plastic, and sapphire glass.

End links (bow links, end pieces)

A part that smoothly connects the case to the bracelet or strap. This design makes the transition between the case and bracelet almost completely imperceptible, creating a unified appearance. It not only improves the appearance, but also contributes to the comfort of wearing, allowing the bracelet or strap to fit securely on the wrist and provide a smooth fit. Rolex calls it Flash Fit.

Piece (frame)

The individual small sections or parts that make up a bracelet. It plays an important role in adjusting the overall length of the bracelet and ensuring a snug fit on the wearer's arm. To adjust the length of the bracelet to fit Wrist size, add or remove pieces to adjust the size.

Clasp/Buckle

A part that secures a bracelet or strap to your arm and prevents it from falling off. Some types of buckles have fine-adjustment features that allow you to fine-tune the size Wrist size and get the perfect fit.

Common watch functions and terms

accuracy

The accuracy of a watch is affected by various factors such as the environment in which it is used and the position of the watch. Quartz watches are relatively accurate, and the monthly error is generally within ±15 seconds. This is due to the stability of the vibration frequency of the quartz, which is powered by a battery, and provides sufficient accuracy for use in everyday life.

On the other hand, mechanical watches can have an error of about ±5 to 20 seconds per day, known as the "daily error." This is a normal range for both New and Used watches, and it is recognized that there is this degree of variation in the accuracy of mechanical watches. In addition, the accuracy error of Antique mechanical watches can be even greater, with an error of about ±30 seconds to 2 minutes per day. This is due to the limitations of the design and manufacturing technology at the time, as well as the aging of the mechanism and individual differences, and varies from watch to watch.

In mechanical watches, the amount of winding of the mainspring also has a significant effect on the accuracy. If the mainspring is not wound to the standard amount, the accuracy of the watch may be significantly affected. Therefore, it is recommended that you wind the mainspring fully before use.

Waterproof

Some models of watches are waterproof, and different standards of performance are set depending on the intended use and environment. "m" is in meters and indicates the approximate waterproof performance, but does not directly indicate the depth of water. In order to maintain waterproof performance, it is important to make sure that the crown is firmly tightened and to perform regular maintenance. Please note that non-waterproof watches are at risk of water ingress even in situations where they are exposed to minimal moisture.
* Used and Antique watches may have deteriorated in waterproof performance when New due to aging.

⚫︎ 30m to 50m waterproof: This is called everyday waterproof and can withstand sweat, rain, and splashes of water when washing hands, but avoid bathing, using it in heavy rain, swimming, etc.

⚫︎ Water resistant to 100m to 200m: Can withstand accidental immersion in water in daily life (e.g. getting wet in the rain, splashing water when washing hands, etc.), but is not suitable for use in marine sports such as swimming or diving. yeah. Although it can withstand light temporary immersion in water, it is not suitable for sustained underwater activities or use in environments subject to high water pressure.

⚫︎ Water resistant to over 200m: Suitable for marine sports and diving, but depending on how it is used, the water pressure may exceed the waterproof performance, so heavy use underwater is not recommended, especially if it is not a diver's watch. See the list of waterproof diver's products

The iconic diver's watch

Chronograph

A complex timepiece with a stopwatch function. Its additional buttons allow you to start, stop and reset the time, allowing you to measure time precisely. Chronographs are highly suitable for use in sporting events, such as races, diving and flying, where precise timing is required. Their functionality and sophisticated design also make them suitable for everyday use, whether in a business or casual setting.

Representative chronograph watches

hack function

The hack function allows the watch to set the time accurately, and refers to the function where the second hand stops when the crown is pulled out to its maximum position. Most watches made before the 1960s did not have it, and even current models often do not have it.

screw-down crown

A screw-down crown is a special crown structure designed to improve the waterproof performance of a watch. Screwing the crown into the case prevents water and moisture from entering the internal movement. Proper screwing can greatly improve the water resistance of a watch, so it is often used in diver's watches used for water activities, swimming, diving, etc. When closing the crown, it is important to push it straight in and tighten it slowly. If you feel any discomfort along the way, it is recommended that you do not continue forcing it, but loosen the crown and try again. Forcing it in can damage the threads, and the crown will not be closed properly, which can reduce waterproofing or, in the worst case, cause internal failure.

Image of a screw-down crown

Precautions for use: Common causes of malfunctions

time setting

Typically, clock hands are designed to move clockwise. It is recommended that you follow this direction when adjusting the time and date. Moving the needle counterclockwise (counterclockwise) may cause a malfunction.

date setting

On many watches, the date changes automatically between 11:30 and 3:00. However, internally, preparations for the date change begin before that time, and the gears continue to mesh even after the display has changed. This entire range of operations is called the "date change prohibition period," and manually fast-forwarding the date during this period puts strain on the watch's internal mechanisms and increases the likelihood of it breaking down. Therefore, it is important to avoid this period when adjusting the date. When adjusting the date, first turn the hands of the watch to point to 6:00. This will put you in a safe period regardless of whether it is morning or afternoon, and you can adjust the date with peace of mind. Following these guidelines will help prevent your watch from breaking down and ensure that you can use it for a long time.

impact

The hairspring, a core component that determines the accuracy of a mechanical watch, is a very thin and delicate metal coil with a thickness of less than 0.1 mm. The internal parts of a watch, including the hairspring, are very fine and delicate, so they can easily be deformed or damaged by strong impacts. It is important to remove your watch when playing sports or doing strenuous work. Hitting or dropping your watch can cause malfunctions in any type of watch, not just mechanical watches.

magnetic

Even if you use your watch on a daily basis, it may stop or become slow due to the influence of electronic devices. This occurs when the parts of the movement become magnetized and attract and repel each other, which is called "magnetization." If your watch becomes magnetized, you can remove the magnetism with special equipment, but this is only a simple temporary measure, and depending on the part that is magnetized, an overhaul or part replacement may be necessary. Please be careful not to place your watch near or bring it close to products that emit strong magnetism, such as mobile phones, computer and TV speakers, microwave ovens, and magnetic clasps on bags.

temperature, ultraviolet light

Temperature changes can affect the accuracy of your watch. Mechanical watches in particular tend to run late in hot places and fast in cold places. Sudden temperature changes can cause Crystal to fog up and can also cause deterioration of the watch case. Also, please be careful as ultraviolet rays from direct sunlight can cause fading and deterioration of the dial.

Effects of chemicals, etc.

Watches are precision machines and are extremely sensitive to external chemical influences. In particular, acidic or alkaline aqueous solutions run the risk of corroding the metal parts of your watch and degrading the surface finish. Therefore, special care must be taken when using or storing these chemicals in environments where they are present. Even if you are confident in its waterproof performance, we recommend that you avoid direct contact with it.

Precautions for use: Effects on the human body

Metal allergy

Even though metals are generally considered harmless to the human body, ionized metals can be absorbed into the body through sweat, etc., and can cause allergic reactions. If you experience any abnormalities such as swelling, itching, or rash on your skin during or after wearing the product, we recommend that you immediately stop using it and consult a doctor immediately.